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Thursday, 26 June 2008

Food in Peru

Q: I have been researching a trip to Machu Picchu, but I am not having much luck. What is the food like in general in Peru? We are going on a trip this December to Peru and my fiance has a food allergy. I have been trying to find out if it is very spicy or more natural. He is mostly allergic to pepper (salt and pepper), tomatoes and spices. Surprisingly he is not allergic to chili or peri-peri. If you could help me in anyway I would be extremely grateful. - Jane Perry

A: The website, www.foodbycountry, has this to say: "The Peruvian cuisine largely consists of spicy dishes that originated as a blend of Spanish and indigenous foods. Aji (chili) is the most popular spice in Peru and is used in a variety of ways to give food extra flavor. Mint, oregano, basil, parsley, and cilantro are also included in Peruvian dishes, particularly soups and stews." That does not seem to bode well for your fiance. A look at the recipes available on many websites should help him come to a decision. A quick glance seems to suggest that salt and pepper is commonly used. However, I am sure that with his diet limitations, he has learnt how to cope while travelling. As Machu Picchu is a major tourist destination, I am sure many different types of cuisine, including bland Western food, are available at nearby resorts. Also, I am sure you can find restaurants that are prepared to serve the popular potato dishes and basic meals without spices. A negative comment on the website, www.livinginperu.com, should perversely provide some hope in your case: "Unless you are eating at one of the upscale restaurants, or dining on sushi, typical Peruvian food lacks insight, spices, and really very much flavour."

Health spa: Thailand or South Africa?

Q: Thank you for your two very informative and interesting articles on Koh Samui in Thailand (Sunday Times, June 15th). Please can you tell me how one would book to go to a health spa on Koh Samui; not the one you went to, but one that at least gives you fruit and vegetables. - Joy Flavio

A: The place I visited, The Spa Resorts Samui, can draw up a programme for guests which includes meals at their excellent vegetarian restaurant. The health consultants are strong believers in the benefits of eating fruit and raw vegetables, but most of the guests are there for the fasting and detox programmes. (Tel: +66-77-424 666 or email: thespa@spasamui.com). A good alternative is the Kamalaya Resort. This classy health spa specialises in "Relax and Renew" packages that include meals, a health diagnosis and a variety of massages and treatments.(Telephone +66-77-429-800 or email: info@kamalaya.com). However, as this is an upmarket resort, it can be expensive when you factor in the flights from South Africa.

Thailand is a great destination, but you could also consider one of the health spas in South Africa. They offer similar programmes to those available in Thailand at a more affordable cost. Try the Brookdale Health Hydro in the Natal Midlands (Tel: 033-266-6208), The Hydro at Stellenbosch (Tel: 021-809 3800) or the Hoogland Health Hydro near Pretoria (Tel: 012-380 4000).

Mykonos in September

Q: We had planned to visit Mykonos in August, but are reconsidering due to the high prices and reports that it is very crowded then. We are now thinking of going in late September or early October. What will the weather be like, will restaurants be open and will all transport be functioning? - John Paul

A: There should be no problem visiting the island during this period. While the crowds that swarm the island in August will have departed, there will still be a fair number of visitors. The weather will be a little cooler than during July and August, but it will definitely be warm enough to swim! You won't have any problem with transport, as ferries and planes will be running as usual. Most restaurants, bars and clubs will be open; those that do close will only shut up shop later in October. A number of people live on Mykonos and it is a popular weekend resort for many Athenians, so there are always restaurants and bars open. I don't think you will regret visiting at this time, as you are more likely to experience true Greek culture and hospitality.

Cycling in London

Q: My husband and I are cycling enthusiasts and would like to go cycling while on holiday in London in August. Can you recommend a club or company which organises cycling trips or tours in or around London? We will not be taking bikes with us, so could you also suggest where we could hire bikes. - Lilian Crowley

A: Capital Sport organises cycling tours in south-east England, mainly through areas of Kent and the coast, the Cotswolds and along the Thames River. They do trips lasting from one day to four days and can organise all accommodation and meals along your route. A family-run business, you get the support and advice from your hosts, as well as emergency support. They will also provide bikes. Contact them on +44-1296-631671 or check the www.capital-sport.co.uk website.

Best view of Macy's Fireworks

Q: We are going to be in New York City in early July and are looking forward to watching the traditional Macy's 4th of July fireworks display. Where are the best vantage points? - Margaret Hamilton.

A: There are plenty of excellent places to view this spectacular show. The fireworks will be launched at 9.20pm from the traditional locations on the East River between 23rd and 42nd Streets and from a location near the South Street Seaport. FDR Drive is closed to traffic for onlookers to watch the display and this inevitably becomes a massive street party. For less crowded conditions, find a spot on one of the many barges that line the East River or, even better, treat yourself to a dinner cruise on the East River. One of these is the Circle Line's July 4th cruise, which costs $70 per head. The hotel with the best view is the Millennium UN Plaza, just across from the United Nations. Other popular viewing spots are the South Street Seaport, Liberty State Park, Roosevelt Island ($18 entry) and the top of the Empire State Building ($175 per ticket).

Travel in Morocco

Q: I am interested in travelling to Morocco with a small group of friends. What is the best way to get from city to city or should we join a tour group? - Mike Wilson

A: You can travel between the main cities by train and then use buses to get to smaller towns and villages. For details, check out the www.oncf.ma and www.supratours.ma websites. If you would prefer to take a tour, perhaps the best may be to contact companies that offer small-group tours, like Intrepid Travel (www.intrepidtravel.com), which offers a 15-day "Colours of Morocco" tour for up to 12 people. However, regular visitors say that the best way to get around is to rent a car and drive yourselves, thus avoiding being held to bus and train schedules. You will also be able to discover places that are off the beaten track. If you want to cross the Atlas into the Sahara, you will need a four-wheel drive. You will find all the major vehicle rental companies like Avis, Budget and Hertz in Morocco. Make sure that you have sufficient insurance cover.

Keeping the kids happy in Mumbai

Q: My family is visiting Mumbai during the school holidays. As it is our first visit to India, can you please inform me what attractions there are to keep children amused? - Brenda Naidoo.

A: There is plenty to keep children entertained. First, you can head off to the Esselworld amusement park on Gorai beach. This is India's answer to Disneyland with exciting rollercoaster rides, theme parks and a water park. If your children are interested in marine life, you can take them to the Taraporewala Aquarium, which is located in South Mumbai opposite the Chowpatty. For more widlife, visit the Sanjay Gandhi National Park, a 104 sq. km protected area in the middle of the concrete jungle. It is rich in bird life, but also boasts a few tigers and leopards. It even has some Buddhist caves, known as the Kanheri Caves. You can also visit the Nehru Planetarium at Worli, which runs shows to educate visitors about the solar system and other wonders of the universe. Next door, in the Nehru Centre, they can check out the Discovery of India exhibition. If you have sons, they will love the Indian Museum Ship Vikrant, an old aircraft carrier which has been converted into a maritime museum and even houses a collection of aircraft and helicopters. If they want to set sail, take them on a harbour cruise, which gives one a great view of the city. If your youngsters start to feel a little cramped in this hectically busy city, then take a ride to the Port Trust garden in Colaba, a great place to play ball or run around freely. Don't forget that Mumbai is also the home of the Bollywood film industry, so don't go home without taking them to see a local movie. I am sure both you and your children will have a great time in Mumbai.

Walking the Camino

Q: I am planning to walk one of the 'camino' routes in Spain. Can you give me an idea of the minimum cost per day I should budget for? I intend it to be a 'no frills' holiday. - John Faller

A: Pilgrims who have walked the famous Camino de Santiago say that a budget of 25 Euros a day should be sufficient. For accommodation, your best bet is to stay in the hostels known as albergues. A bed, usually a bunk bed in a mixed-sex dormitory, will cost you 4-10 Euros per night. Blankets are usually provided, but it is advisable to bring a thin sleeping bag. Many albergues have kitchens, but most restaurants along the route offer a "pilgrim's menu", a simple three-course meal usually taken in the evening. This should cost 7-10 Euro. A bottle of cheap wine with your dinner will only cost 2-3 Euros. Bottled water, sandwiches and fruit along the route is not expensive. If you decide to take a break along the route, you can usually find a cheap hotel for 25-35 Euros. For a list of alberques on the route, check out the www.caminodesantiago.me.uk website.

Train to Machu Picchu

Q: I would like to visit Machu Picchu in Peru with my wife later this year. We would prefer not to hike the Inca trail and plan to take a train from Cusco. Could you tell me what service is available and the cost? - John Ellis

A: The cheapest service for tourists is known as the 'Backpacker train'. Popular among younger travellers, you get a seat in a carriage and you can buy snacks and drinks on board. A ticket will cost you US$48 each way. A more comfortable trip is offered on the "Vistadome" train. Carriages with aircraft-style seating have panoramic windows offering spectacular views and snacks and refreshments are served on board. The cost of a seat on this train is US$71 each way. The most luxurious way to travel the route is aboard the Orient Express Hiram Bingham. This service, named after the explorer who discovered the ruins in 1911, takes you there in elegant carriages decorated in the style of the 1920's Pullman trains. There are two dining cars and an observation bar carriage. A return day trip, including meals, drinks and meals, is currently priced at US$588 per person. Whatever train you opt for, you need to book well in advance during the busy period until the end of September. If the trains from Cusco are fully booked, you can usually get a seat on the more-frequent service between Ollantaytambo (the Sacred Valley) and Machu Picchu. Details of all trains on the www.orient-express.com website. Note: The cheapest train on this route is actually PeruRail's Tren Local, but tourists are not allowed to use this much-slower service. It is for the exclusive use of local residents.

Hotel in New Orleans

Q: While on a trip to the United States in August, we would like to spend a weekend in New Orleans. Can you recommend a hotel of three-star standard close to the French Quarter which offers reasonable rates? We would prefer the hotel to have a swimming pool, but this is not essential. - Maggie de Villiers

A: Try the Country Inn & Suites By Carlson, which is located within walking distance of the French Quarter. If you book through the group's website (www.countryinns.com) you should be able to get a rate of around US$100 per night. I checked the website for the first weekend in August and could book a double room for US$64 per night (plus US$8 in taxes), but on other weekends the rate rose to US$90 per night (plus US$12 in taxes). The hotel has an outdoor swimming pool, a fitness centre and an airport shuttle. Book as soon as possible to get the best rate.

Child-friendly Lisbon

Q: I am travelling to Lisbon with my three children aged 7,10 and 12. Can you suggest any activities and attractions that will keep them occupied and entertained, especially those that have an educational element? - Jody White

A: You will have no problem keeping them entertained, as Lisbon is one of the most family-friendly cities in Europe and the Portuguese people welcome children everywhere. You can start off with the Maritime Museum, which has a children's section, and the Planetarium, which has presentations for children and in English. They should also enjoy seeing the sharks at the Oceanarium and trying out some of the thrilling experiments at the Interactive Science Museum with its thrilling hands-on experiments. You can also spend a few hours at the city zoo, with its dolphin shows and lion feeding. For a great view of the animals, ride the cable car. Visit the Design Museum in the city centre and view the selection of fairytale coaches in the Coach Museum in Belem.

Another museum that thrills most youngsters is the Toy Museum in Sintra, with its amazing collection of both ancient and modern toys. After that, you can visit the Pena Palace or the wonderful gardens of Monserrate Palace. Finally, check out the children's play area on the top floor of Colombo shopping centre, which has a fun fair that is known as the largest indoor amusement park in Europe. Ride the rollercoaster or the go-karts and enjoy many other rides, video games and bowling. For other ideas and child-friendly events, check the listings in the tourism office's monthly Follow Me magazine.

Sri Lanka or not?

Q: As our grandather spent most of his life in the Ceylon, we would love to visit Sri Lanka. Can you advise us whether it is safe to visit now? Also, which airline would we use to get there and can you recommend good hotels in Colombo and Galle? Thank you. - Edith Brackenridge

A: There have been sporadic problems around Colombo, but the south of the country, where Galle is located, is peaceful and you should have no problems there. As long as you take reasonable precautions in Colombo and stay in the tourist zones, the danger should not be too great. I would not hesitate to visit this lovely country, but it is up to you to decide whether it is worth the risk, however small that may be. The best route airline to use is Emirates, via Dubai. However, you could also fly via south-east Asia, using Thai Airways, Malaysia Airline or Singapore Airlines, all of whom have connections to Colombo. If you prefer to use SAA, you would fly to Mumbai or Hong Kong and connect with other carriers. Two hotels I recommend in Colombo are the Hilton or the Galle Face Hotel (the new wing). Both have great locations and offer good accommodation and service. In Galle, the you can't go wrong with the Galle Fort Hotel or the lovely old-fashioned Amangalla Resort, part of Asia's renowned Aman group. The best budget choice is the Closenberg Hotel. My personal favourite is the new Fotress Hotel, which is outside of the Galle Fort on Koggala beach. Be aware that although Galle is only 120kms from Colombo, the drive can take 4-5 hours.

Where to find useful hotel reviews

Q: I find booking hotels overseas rather a nightmare, as one never knows what to expect. I no longer rely on star ratings, as the standards are not the same in different countries. Is there an authoritative source on the Internet or elsewhere that one can rely on for accurate information? - Geraldine du Toit.

A: The most reliable reviewers of hotels are other travellers. I regard the website www.tripadvisor.com as the best guide to accommodation all over the globe. The site has reviews of most hotels and does not censor or remove bad reviews, so you can get a reasonable idea of what to expect by reading other people's comments. Don't go by the overall rating, as not everyone rates accommodation from the same perspective. For example, I might give a hotel a poor rating because it is located in a quiet area, away from the restaurants and nightlife, when that is exactly what you are searching for. You can also find reviews on many hotel booking websites, but beware those that only have glowing reports for every hotel.

Living in Swaziland's Rock

Q: I am visiting Swaziland next month and would prefer to stay in a small hotel or guest lodge as opposed to big hotels like the Swazi Sun. Can you recommend a good guest house within an hour's drive of Mbabane. - Jenny Bernstein

A: A highly-recommended place to stay is Reilly's Rock Hilltop Lodge. Although geared towards holidaymakers, I am sure that you would find it very comfortable. With only six bedrooms, this colonial retreat is located on the Mlilwane Hill, within the Mlilwane Wildlife Sanctuary. You can book rooms through the www.places.co.za and www.biggameparks.org websites.

Visa for Bali

Q: As a South African passport holder, do I need a visa to visit Bali for a two-week holiday? - Gina Ellis

A: You do need a visa for Indonesia, but you no longer need to apply in advance. A visa-on-arrival is available at Denpasar Airport for 25 US dollars, so you need to have the currency in US dollars when you arrive.

Shopping in Tokyo

Q: I am accompanying my husband to a conference in Tokyo and want to experience the legendary shopping. As we will be staying in Ginza, I am sure I will find the big department stores and the famous Dior and Prada outlets. However, as my daughter will be with me, we would very much like to check out the trendy areas frequented by the uber-fashionable Japanese youth. Can you help with some advice? - Tracee Evington

A: While Ginza will seem like a shopper's paradise (and it is for the label-conscious), you need to head for the Shibuya shopping area to find the really trendy boutiques and shops. Here you'll also see the trendiest young Japanese doing their thing. Stop over in the Shibuya 109 Building, a shopping centre where the "kogal" subculture was born. Kogals were platform shoes and tiny miniskirts and sport heavy make-up, dyed hair and artificial suntans. Check out the boutiques for outrageous fashions and dazzling accessories. Another area well worth visiting is Takeshita-dori, which is located opposite the Harajuku Station, A narrow street packed with fashionable boutiques and cafes, Takeshita-dori is the place to be seen if you're hip, trendy and on the cutting edge of Japanese fashion.

You are likely to find prices high, so you may choose to buy your gifts at the Oriental Bazaar in Harajuku and the many flea markets that abound, especially over weekends. Also don't forget to visit the "100 Yen" stores, where you can buy the most amazing goods for less than a dollar. Found in many railway stations and shopping areas, you'll find some great souvenirs like origami paper, chopsticks, 'Hello Kitty' goods and much more.

Luxury at Elephant Park

Q: Could you recommend a luxury guesthouse near the Addo Elephant Park in the Eastern Cape? - Danie Steyn

A: There are a number of guesthouses surrounding the Addo Elephant Park, but I have selected three that come highly recommended. Woodall Country House offers five-star luxury on a citrus farm in the Sundays River Valley close to the park. Game drives are offered in a open-topped land cruiser, but there's plenty to keep you occupied in the lodge. Visit the library, take a walk on the farm or relax at the palm-fringed swimming pool, gym and spa. Rates from R650 per night. (Tel 042-233 0128 or check out www.woodall-addo.co.za).

Another great option is Elephant House. This exquisite nine-bedroomed lodge has a colonial African feel and you could spend hours relaxing on the plump sofas on its many verandahs. But you will surely rouse yourself for a tour of the park or a special "walk with the elephants" experience. Rates from R550 to R2025 per night. (Tel: 042-233 2462 or check out www.elephanthouse.co.za).

If fine dining is important to you, you can try the Cosmos Cuisine Guest House at Addo. Accommodation in 14 luxury rooms is comfortable and charming, but it's the food that will wow you. The restaurant has been voted one of the best in South Africa. Rates from R700. to R2015 per night. (Tel: 042 -234 0323 or check out www.cosmoscuisine.co.za).

Packages too cheap?

Q: I have seen adverts that give you a flight and hotel accommodation for a week for less than the cost of the cheapest flight I can find. How is this possible? Can I trust them or are there hidden charges that only emerge later? - Bev Davies

A: Tour operators are offered highly-discounted fares by airlines on condition that they sell them as part of a package or tour. These packages are then sold by regular travel agents. However, you cannot cannot get the low airfares on their own; they need to be sold along with other "land arrangements". Some agents will allow you to change the land arrangements to suit yourself. For example, they may permit you to reduce the number of accommodation nights in return for booking tours or car hire. Generally, there are no hidden costs, but you need to check for a single surcharge if you are travelling alone and ensure that all quoted price includes all airport taxes, fuel surcharges and other fees.

You also need to be aware that there are often strict conditions on the 'tour tickets' with regard to changing dates and frequent flier mileage. If your travel agent is unwilling to negotiate changes, you can approach tour operators directly with your queries. Thompsons Tours and Absolute Tours are among the best.

Splendid Hotel in Cape Town

Q: I am hoping you can help me find a hotel in Cape Town to suit our needs. We would prefer a small, reasonably priced hotel close to the Sea Point area. We would prefer a hotel on the seafront if possible. We are hoping to pay less than R1000 per night. Can you help? - Alex Du Plessis

A: A hotel which may interest you is La Splendida Luxury Suites, a charming 22-room boutique hotel on the Mouille Point beachfront. Very well-appointed rooms have mountain or sea views, and the hotel has an excellent restaurant on the ground floor. Room rates start at R495 for a single and R695 for a double. Another hotel you could try is the Winchester Mansions Hotel on the Sea Point beachfront road. Although it is not a small, it is not a traditional high-rise hotel and has a cosy atmosphere. The room rates range from R790 to over R4000 a night at this very classy four-star hotel, but you could try for special rates during the winter season. In fact, you should always ask for discounts at all hotels in the off-season, as many prices are aimed at foreign visitors during the busy summer period.

Casinos in Singapore

Q: I hear that a big casino resort has opened in Singapore. Does it have hotel accommodation? If so, I would like to stay there when I visit Singapore in September. Could you please give me contact details. - Reyno Els

A: Contracts for two large casino resorts have been awarded in Singapore, but they have not opened yet. The first, which is owned by the Las Vegas Sands group, is scheduled to open in the city centre in July next year, while Malaysia's Genting Group will open a spectacular casino resort on Sentosa Island in 2010.

Affordable Hotels in Sydney

Q: I am planning a trip to Australia and am confused about selecting a hotel in Sydney. Which is the best areas to stay in and can you recommend a few affordable hotels I could try there? - Angus Sheard

A: There are three main areas in Sydney that you could consider. The CBD is most convenient if you are on a business trip or intend visiting museums, Darling Harbour or spend time shopping. The most scenic area to base yourself would be The Rocks, which overlooks the Opera House and the Harbour Bridge. It is close to many of the city's greatest attractions and has great restaurants, pubs and markets. The final alternative is to choose a hotel in one of the trendy eastern suburbs along Oxford Street, famous for its night life. Characterised by charming Victorian terrace houses, this area is home to many of the city's trendy art galleries, antique stores, boutiques and bohemian cafes.

My choice of hotel in the The Rocks area would be The Russell, a homely, old-fashioned hotel with a great rooftop garden overlooking Circular Quay. Bedrooms, some of which are decked out in antique headboards and pine dressers, are clean and comfortable. Tel: 61-2-9241-3543, fax: 9252-1652, (www.therussell.com.au). Rooms from A$150. For a central location I recommend the budget, boutique Pensione, which is located near the Central Station and Chinatown. Once known as the King George Hotel, it has been simply and beautifully restored, with its Gothic Victorian architecture intact. Expect polished wooden floors, carpet runners and mosaic tiles. Tel: 61-2- 9265-8888, (www.pensione.com.au). Special rates direct from the hotel start at A$99. For a vibey atmosphere close to Oxford Street, a great choice is The Kirketon, set in the heart of Darlinghurst. Its 40 rooms are decked out with goat hair carpets, cane chairs and Aveda toiletries. Plasma screens and iPod docks are being installed in all rooms and the lobby bar is a great meeting spot before you hit the streets. Tel: 61-2-9332-2011, ( www.kirketon.com.au). Rooms from A$155.

Size of backpack

Q: I am going backpacking in Europe from July and would prefer to travel with a backpack that I don't have to check in when I fly adn can use as carry-on luggage. What are the restrictions on size? - John Levitt

A: The guidelines for carry-on luggage in EU countries specify that it cannot weigh more than 10kg or be larger than 55cm x 40cm x 20cm. This means that a 45L backpack, which you would need for an extended trip, would be too big to carry on the flight. It may be better to check in your backpack, but valuables and essentials in a detachable bag, which you could carry with you on the flight.

Restrictions on Rides

Q: We will be visiting Florida next month and want to spend time at some of the theme parks there. Can you tell me if there are any weight or height restrictions for any of the rides? - Samantha Cohen

A: As far as I know, there are no minimum or maximum weight restrictions, although some rollercoaster rides where you have to be strapped in provide "tester seats" outside the ride. If you can fit in, you can ride. As for height, some rides have a minimum height restriction. They have a height chart at the entrance to the ride and children not tall enough are not allowed to go on the ride.