Secret Island in Laos

Q: We are very keen on staying in out-of-the-way places, where one can live close to the community without the trappings of organised tourism. I have heard of an island in the Mekong River in Laos which is relatively undiscovered. Could you find out the best way of getting there, whether one can stay there and how to book? We are not looking for a luxury lodge - simple, basic accommodation is more our style. - Ian and Melanie Dekker

A: The community of Si Phan Don is better known as "4,000 Islands" and is located in a quiet part of the Mekong in southern Laos. A visit here is bound to appeal to you, as you live in small guesthouses among the local people, travel on rickety rafts and electiricity is only widely available from 6-10pm. The pace of life is slow, you can spend your days walking or cycling around the small islands, taking in the biggest waterfall in southeast Asia, rice paddies and secluded beaches. It is easy to hire a boat with a driver to discover other parts of the river. The main islands are Don Det, Don Kone and Don Khong, and transport between the three is easy. The easiest way to get there is to make your way to Pakse and then ask a local tour operator to arrange transport for you. You don't book accommodation in advance, just arrive and find somewhere that appeals to you. Most backpackers seem to stay in Don Det, but Don Khong has a few slightly more upmarket options. Most of the guest houses have bungalows situated by the river, and include a mosquito net, double bed and veranda. You may have to share abltuion facilities. Everything is very cheap, with rooms available from five dollars a night. (2 Aug 2009)