Q: I am going on a trip to Kathmandu in Nepal. My itinerary there will be taken care of by potential business partners. I declined their offer of an arranged guesthouse, so I am responsible for making my own transport and accommodation arrangements. Can you help me with details of flights from South Africa, visa regulations and recommended hotels? - Lesley Trafalgar
A: The easiest airline routes to Nepal are via the Middle East or South-East Asia. Airlines that fly from South Africa which have connections to Kathmandu include Qatar Airways, Etihad Airways and Singapore Airlines. Among the destinations served by Royal Nepal Airlines are Bangkok, Dubai, Hong Kong, Mumbai and Singapore. You can apply for a visa at the airport on arrival for 15 US dollars. You will need one passport-sized photograph and it does not take long. Don't consider negotiating a taxi fare at the airport, as your after-flight patience may be severely tested. It is best to arrange for your hotel to collect you. Alternatively, opt for a fixed-rate taxi run by the Airport Queue Taxi Service, which is located outside the arrivals hall. Although the international trend is moving away from having to reconfirm flights, this is not the case for all airlines here. Make sure you reconfirm both legs of your journey or you could be dropped from the flight. The easiest way to do this in Kathmandu is through the travel desk at your hotel.
If you don't can do without the trappings of a traditional Western hotel and prefer one with more local character, you could try the Hotel Tibet. When you first walk in, you will think you have landed up in Tibet. You'll find hand-woven Tibetan carpets on the floor, Tibetan wall hangings and Tibetan furniture everywhere, but the bedrooms offer satellite television and air conditioning. There is a restaurant, bar and rooftop garden, a good spot to relax after the hustle and bustle of the city streets below. Rooms are simply decorated with air-conditioning and satellite television. There’s a 24-hour Internet lounge for guests in need of a computer. Hotel Tibet is in a quiet street yet minutes away from Thamel (www.hotel-tibet.com). If that sounds a tad too exotic for you, opt for the comfortable Radisson Hotel not too far away. Popular with business travellers, it is close to the tourist spots of Dubar Marg and Thamel. For relaxation, it offers a swimming pool and bar on the fifth floor, as well as a casino (www.radisson.com). Probably the best hotel in town is the Hyatt Regency Kathmandu, which has very comfortable rooms with wooden floors, WiFI and luxurious bathrooms. Set on 37 acres with two swimming pools, a spa and tennis courts, this is the closest you will get to a traditional five-star hotel. A nice touch, though, is the sunken 'temple court' off the lobby, which is filled with replicas of Buddhist temples (www.kathmandu.regency.hyatt.com).
Sunday, 8 February 2009
The new Bordeaux
Q: French friends have recommended that we visit the town of Bergerac after attending a conference in Paris during June. Could you help us with information on travel from Paris, accommodation and any other tips about this place? - Ron James
A: Bergerac is getting increasingly popular with visitors as a more intimate alternative to nearby Bordeaux. With its location on the Dordogne River and cobbled streets, it makes a perfect spot to investigate some of the 120 wine producers in this region. You can fly from Paris to Bergerac, but the train journey is more scenic. You take the Bordeaux-bound TGV train from Paris Montparnasse station; the journey takes 3 hours, 30 minutes. From here, catch a connecting train to Bergerac (one hour). For accommodation, try to get a room at the highly-recommended Chateau Lespinassat Hotel, located in a 18th century French country residence five kilometres from the town. With only three stylish rooms, you'll get very personalised service from the hosts (www.venere.com). For a more central hotel, you could try the Hôtel de Bordeaux (www.hotel-bordeaux-bergerac.com). You will find many interesting shops and restaurants in the small lanes of the city centre. For the best duck in town, try the L'Enfance de Lard restaurant, which overlooks a fountain in Bergerac's main square. Make sure you visit the Wine Museum and the statue of Cyrano, one of the town's best-known characters.
A: Bergerac is getting increasingly popular with visitors as a more intimate alternative to nearby Bordeaux. With its location on the Dordogne River and cobbled streets, it makes a perfect spot to investigate some of the 120 wine producers in this region. You can fly from Paris to Bergerac, but the train journey is more scenic. You take the Bordeaux-bound TGV train from Paris Montparnasse station; the journey takes 3 hours, 30 minutes. From here, catch a connecting train to Bergerac (one hour). For accommodation, try to get a room at the highly-recommended Chateau Lespinassat Hotel, located in a 18th century French country residence five kilometres from the town. With only three stylish rooms, you'll get very personalised service from the hosts (www.venere.com). For a more central hotel, you could try the Hôtel de Bordeaux (www.hotel-bordeaux-bergerac.com). You will find many interesting shops and restaurants in the small lanes of the city centre. For the best duck in town, try the L'Enfance de Lard restaurant, which overlooks a fountain in Bergerac's main square. Make sure you visit the Wine Museum and the statue of Cyrano, one of the town's best-known characters.
Best time to visit Egypt
Q: When is the best time to visit Egypt? We were planning a trip over Easter, but believe there can be sandstorms then. When should we go? - Sam Du Plessis
A: Overall, October to May is the peak tourist season in Egypt, as the days are not too hot and the evening cool. However, you quite rightly point out that there is the chance of dust storms. Known as the khamsin, these hot, dry winds blow from the Sahara across the country between March and May. They can be unpleasant, but there is also the chance that you won't experience one at all. I don't think it should put you off travelling during this time, as the possibility of a dust storm or two is preferable to the certainty of crippling heat during summer.
A: Overall, October to May is the peak tourist season in Egypt, as the days are not too hot and the evening cool. However, you quite rightly point out that there is the chance of dust storms. Known as the khamsin, these hot, dry winds blow from the Sahara across the country between March and May. They can be unpleasant, but there is also the chance that you won't experience one at all. I don't think it should put you off travelling during this time, as the possibility of a dust storm or two is preferable to the certainty of crippling heat during summer.
Vienna State Opera tickets
Q: My husband and I will be in Vienna in October and I want to make sure that I get tickets for a performance at the Vienna State Opera. However, I have been unable to find out any details of productions, dates and prices. Can you help? - Louise van Straaten
A: The new season for the Vienna State Opera, which begins in September, will only be announced on April 3. The information, along with ticket prices, will be posted on the company's website (www.wiener-staatsoper.at). Ticket prices presently range from 8 Euros to 240 Euros, but you should be able to get a good seat for 60-100 Euros. Tickets for the VSO can normally be purchased from the ticket offices one month before the date of the performance. You will be able to purchase seats on the company's website.
A: The new season for the Vienna State Opera, which begins in September, will only be announced on April 3. The information, along with ticket prices, will be posted on the company's website (www.wiener-staatsoper.at). Ticket prices presently range from 8 Euros to 240 Euros, but you should be able to get a good seat for 60-100 Euros. Tickets for the VSO can normally be purchased from the ticket offices one month before the date of the performance. You will be able to purchase seats on the company's website.
Find Cheap Accom in New York
Q: We are visiting New York in May and are looking for cheap hotel or flat accommodation near Times Square for five nights. Can you please help? - Gwen Le Torres
A: The search for affordable accommodation in New York is one of the most common questions I receive. So, for all those planning to visit the Big Apple, here is a guide to finding something to suit your pocket, with a list of some examples:
Stay in a youth hostel:
HI-New York, on the Upper West Side of Manhattan, is the largest youth hostel in the world, With 624 beds, rates start at around $30 person for a bunk bed with linens and a locker. Holds, an outdoor barbecue cookout every summer evening (www.hinewyork.org).
Broadway Hotel n Hostel is one of the boutique-style hostels which are popping up all over New York on the trendy Upper West Side. Facilities include a lounge, a lift (elevator), a library with a fireplace and a state-of-the-art cinema. Well located for public transport and offers a shuttle service from the airport. (www.hostelnewyork.com).
West Side YMCA is situated only a minute's walk from Central Park and 15 minutes from Times Square. For $105 you can get a private room with airconditioning and cable TV. Free access to the YMCA's health club and swimming pools (www.ymcanyc.org)
Rent an apartment:
Your best bet is to check the listings for the city in Craigslist under the heading "sublets/temporary". You may get a room in an apartment or a studio or apartment of your own. Either way, it will be much cheaper than any hotel or bed and breakfast. You could also post an advert in the housing section (www.craigslist).
Book a budget tourist hotel:
The Milford Plaza Hotel is within easy walking distance of Times Square and the Rockefeller Centre. Rooms are small, but clean. (www.milfordplaza.com).
The Edison is a popular tourist-class hotel in a good location near Times Square (www.edisonhotelnyc.com).
414 Hotel offers an intimate atmosphere in two historical townhouses in 46th Street. The charming courtyard is a bonus.(www.hotel414.com).
The Washington Square Hotel, a recently renovated century-old hotel situated on Washington Square in the heart of Greenwich Village (www.wshotel.com).
Choose a small boutique hotel:
The Pod Hotel (230 E 51st Street) offers unbelievably small rooms with classy fittings and features. Get a surprising level of comfort at bargain rates (www.thepodhotel.com).
102Brownstone (102 west 118th street) offers private studio apartments and suites, all with fully-equipped kitchens, internet access and DVD players. Stylish rooms, with some featuring jacuzzi tubs (www.102brownstone.com).
Hotel Le Bleu (370 Fourth Avenue, Brooklyn) offers spacious rooms and close proximity to the subway. Cool colours and stark furnishings have a Miami South Beach feel, making it a refreshing hideaway in this busy city (www.hotellebleu.com).
Hotel 373 (373 Fifth Avenue) offers a comfortable base in a great location - close to the Empire State Building. Rooms are small, but equipped with flat screen LCD TVs, wi-fi internet access, iPod docks and a Starbucks in the foyer (www.hotel373.com).
Check for specials:
As New York is popular throughout the year, bargains are few and far between. However, the major hotel groups like Hyatt, Sheraton, Hilton, Ritz Carlton and Marriott have special offers that extend to their New York hotels. For the best rates, try business hotels during the weekend and popular tourist hotels during the week.
A: The search for affordable accommodation in New York is one of the most common questions I receive. So, for all those planning to visit the Big Apple, here is a guide to finding something to suit your pocket, with a list of some examples:
Stay in a youth hostel:
HI-New York, on the Upper West Side of Manhattan, is the largest youth hostel in the world, With 624 beds, rates start at around $30 person for a bunk bed with linens and a locker. Holds, an outdoor barbecue cookout every summer evening (www.hinewyork.org).
Broadway Hotel n Hostel is one of the boutique-style hostels which are popping up all over New York on the trendy Upper West Side. Facilities include a lounge, a lift (elevator), a library with a fireplace and a state-of-the-art cinema. Well located for public transport and offers a shuttle service from the airport. (www.hostelnewyork.com).
West Side YMCA is situated only a minute's walk from Central Park and 15 minutes from Times Square. For $105 you can get a private room with airconditioning and cable TV. Free access to the YMCA's health club and swimming pools (www.ymcanyc.org)
Rent an apartment:
Your best bet is to check the listings for the city in Craigslist under the heading "sublets/temporary". You may get a room in an apartment or a studio or apartment of your own. Either way, it will be much cheaper than any hotel or bed and breakfast. You could also post an advert in the housing section (www.craigslist).
Book a budget tourist hotel:
The Milford Plaza Hotel is within easy walking distance of Times Square and the Rockefeller Centre. Rooms are small, but clean. (www.milfordplaza.com).
The Edison is a popular tourist-class hotel in a good location near Times Square (www.edisonhotelnyc.com).
414 Hotel offers an intimate atmosphere in two historical townhouses in 46th Street. The charming courtyard is a bonus.(www.hotel414.com).
The Washington Square Hotel, a recently renovated century-old hotel situated on Washington Square in the heart of Greenwich Village (www.wshotel.com).
Choose a small boutique hotel:
The Pod Hotel (230 E 51st Street) offers unbelievably small rooms with classy fittings and features. Get a surprising level of comfort at bargain rates (www.thepodhotel.com).
102Brownstone (102 west 118th street) offers private studio apartments and suites, all with fully-equipped kitchens, internet access and DVD players. Stylish rooms, with some featuring jacuzzi tubs (www.102brownstone.com).
Hotel Le Bleu (370 Fourth Avenue, Brooklyn) offers spacious rooms and close proximity to the subway. Cool colours and stark furnishings have a Miami South Beach feel, making it a refreshing hideaway in this busy city (www.hotellebleu.com).
Hotel 373 (373 Fifth Avenue) offers a comfortable base in a great location - close to the Empire State Building. Rooms are small, but equipped with flat screen LCD TVs, wi-fi internet access, iPod docks and a Starbucks in the foyer (www.hotel373.com).
Check for specials:
As New York is popular throughout the year, bargains are few and far between. However, the major hotel groups like Hyatt, Sheraton, Hilton, Ritz Carlton and Marriott have special offers that extend to their New York hotels. For the best rates, try business hotels during the weekend and popular tourist hotels during the week.
Thursday, 5 February 2009
Croatia to Italy by Ferry
Q: We will be touring Croatia by car in May. Our next destination is Italy. As taking a car across an international border is usually expensive and I am not keen on flying this route, can you recommend a train or coach service from Dubrovnik to Venice (or somewhere else in northern Italy). - Joan Norris
A: The best way to get from Croatia to Italy is by ferry or catamaran. The ferry would take you to Ancona in Italy and then you could catch a train from Ancona to Venice via Bologna. There are some seasonal ferries from Dubrovnik to Ancona, but more than likely you have have to leave from Split. Drive yourself or catch a bus from Dubrovnik to Split (around 4.5 hours) and then board the regular ferry service to Ancona. The ferry service from Split to Ancona takes 10 hours. Then you can catch the train for a scenic journey to Venice. For ferry details contact Jadrolinija Ferries (Tel: +39-010-5731805), Snav Croatia Jet (Tel +39-010-5731805) or Blue Line Ferries (Tel +385-21-338292).
A: The best way to get from Croatia to Italy is by ferry or catamaran. The ferry would take you to Ancona in Italy and then you could catch a train from Ancona to Venice via Bologna. There are some seasonal ferries from Dubrovnik to Ancona, but more than likely you have have to leave from Split. Drive yourself or catch a bus from Dubrovnik to Split (around 4.5 hours) and then board the regular ferry service to Ancona. The ferry service from Split to Ancona takes 10 hours. Then you can catch the train for a scenic journey to Venice. For ferry details contact Jadrolinija Ferries (Tel: +39-010-5731805), Snav Croatia Jet (Tel +39-010-5731805) or Blue Line Ferries (Tel +385-21-338292).
Honeymoon in Thailand
Q: Which part of Thailand would you recommend for a beach honeymoon? - Linda M.
A: Well, that really depends what type of honeymoon you are looking for. If you want a glamorous luxury beach resort, then Phuket or one of the islands in the Andaman Sea is probably your best bet. Phuket is Thailand's top beach destination and has the most facilities and entertainment, as well as the best beaches in Thailand. It has a huge range of accommodation options, from exclusive, celebrity-studded resorts for 1000 US dollars a night to quiet family hotels and beach bungalow-style operations on quiet, remote bays for a few hundred rand. Among the islands around Phuket, three of the most popular are the Phi Phi Islands, Racha Island and Koh Ya Noi, which is the least developed. You can also try Khao Lak, a strip to resorts along the coast on the mainland from Phuket. It has some superb villa-style resorts, secluded beaches and a nearby national park, but may be a little quiet if you want anything more than a romantic dinner at night.
An alternative option to Phuket is Koh Samui, which offers a range of boutique resorts and specialist spas. It has a wide range of restaurants and night-time entertainment. If you prefer chilling out with backpacker-type travellers, try Koh Phangan across the bay from Samui. Other islands closer to Bankgok offering good accommodation are Koh Samet and Koh Chang, which are popular with Thai holidaymakers. There are other areas such as Krabi, Hua Hin, Pattaya and Koh Lanta which all have their own charms. Overall, your safest bet is probably Phuket, as it has so much to offer and is not as overdeveloped as some people seem to think. I would avoid the tourist hub of Patong Beach, and choose a hotel in any of the other resort areas along the west coast. You could also split your holiday between Phuket and one of the islands. Wherever you go, though, you can't go really wrong. Thailand is a great beach holiday destination.
A: Well, that really depends what type of honeymoon you are looking for. If you want a glamorous luxury beach resort, then Phuket or one of the islands in the Andaman Sea is probably your best bet. Phuket is Thailand's top beach destination and has the most facilities and entertainment, as well as the best beaches in Thailand. It has a huge range of accommodation options, from exclusive, celebrity-studded resorts for 1000 US dollars a night to quiet family hotels and beach bungalow-style operations on quiet, remote bays for a few hundred rand. Among the islands around Phuket, three of the most popular are the Phi Phi Islands, Racha Island and Koh Ya Noi, which is the least developed. You can also try Khao Lak, a strip to resorts along the coast on the mainland from Phuket. It has some superb villa-style resorts, secluded beaches and a nearby national park, but may be a little quiet if you want anything more than a romantic dinner at night.
An alternative option to Phuket is Koh Samui, which offers a range of boutique resorts and specialist spas. It has a wide range of restaurants and night-time entertainment. If you prefer chilling out with backpacker-type travellers, try Koh Phangan across the bay from Samui. Other islands closer to Bankgok offering good accommodation are Koh Samet and Koh Chang, which are popular with Thai holidaymakers. There are other areas such as Krabi, Hua Hin, Pattaya and Koh Lanta which all have their own charms. Overall, your safest bet is probably Phuket, as it has so much to offer and is not as overdeveloped as some people seem to think. I would avoid the tourist hub of Patong Beach, and choose a hotel in any of the other resort areas along the west coast. You could also split your holiday between Phuket and one of the islands. Wherever you go, though, you can't go really wrong. Thailand is a great beach holiday destination.
B&B in Sydney
Q: We are going to Sydney in May next year and were expecting to be able to find plenty of B&B's and guesthouses like we have here in SA. It doesn't seem to be the case there, and can you help with any information? We are looking for reasonable B&B accommodation in Rose Bay, Sydney, where we need to be within walking distance of our family. - Carolyn Bradfield
A: I agree that bed and breakasts do seem a little thin in this upmarket area. However, there is one highly recommended bed and breakfast which seems ideally located for you. Syl's Sydney Homestay, a bed and breakfast in Rose Bay, offers comfortable rooms with a nice view of the bay. Prices range from 140 Australian dollars for a double room with shared bathroom to A$160 for a double room with private bathroom. A self-contained apartment will cost you A$190 for two people. All prices include GST and breakfast. This was one of the first bed and breakfasts in Sydney and has been operating since 1980. (75 Beresford Road, tel: (02) 9327 7079, www.sylssydneyhomestay.com).
A: I agree that bed and breakasts do seem a little thin in this upmarket area. However, there is one highly recommended bed and breakfast which seems ideally located for you. Syl's Sydney Homestay, a bed and breakfast in Rose Bay, offers comfortable rooms with a nice view of the bay. Prices range from 140 Australian dollars for a double room with shared bathroom to A$160 for a double room with private bathroom. A self-contained apartment will cost you A$190 for two people. All prices include GST and breakfast. This was one of the first bed and breakfasts in Sydney and has been operating since 1980. (75 Beresford Road, tel: (02) 9327 7079, www.sylssydneyhomestay.com).
Choosing a ship cabin
Q: We will be going on our first ocean cruise in May. We are confused about which cabin to book. Which level is better; higher or lower? Is it better to be closer to the middle of the ship or at either end? Is it advisable to have a cabin close to restaurants, swimming pools and elevators? Is a balcony or suite worth the additional cost? Please help us with some guidelines. - Lettie Beukes
A: Basically, you can be guided by the price; the higher the price, the better the cabin. Before you decide on the actual location of your cabin, however, you need to decide whether you are happy to stay in a room with no outside view and whether you are prepared to pay more for a porthole or a window. You may also have to decide whether are happy with bunk-style accommodation or are prepared to pay more for a proper bed. Once you have made your selection of cabin category, your location options will be significantly narrowed down. If you are prone to seasickness, you should choose a cabin in the middle of the ship on a lower deck where you will feel the least motion. If you are a light sleeper or like to sleep late in the morning, avoid high traffic areas near to restaurants, lifts, games rooms and swimming pools. You should also avoid the bow of the ship, where noise from the anchor could disturb you. However, if you go to bed early, avoid cabins close to discos, casinos, nightclubs and dining areas. If you have difficulty walking or expect to spend a great deal of time at the pool, then select a room closest to a pool area. Only you can judge whether a balcony room or suite is worth the additional cost, sometimes up to twice that of a regular cabin. The advantage of a balcony room is that you have large sliding glass doors, giving you fresh air and a great view and the balcony usually affords you the outdoor privacy you may not get in another cabin.
A: Basically, you can be guided by the price; the higher the price, the better the cabin. Before you decide on the actual location of your cabin, however, you need to decide whether you are happy to stay in a room with no outside view and whether you are prepared to pay more for a porthole or a window. You may also have to decide whether are happy with bunk-style accommodation or are prepared to pay more for a proper bed. Once you have made your selection of cabin category, your location options will be significantly narrowed down. If you are prone to seasickness, you should choose a cabin in the middle of the ship on a lower deck where you will feel the least motion. If you are a light sleeper or like to sleep late in the morning, avoid high traffic areas near to restaurants, lifts, games rooms and swimming pools. You should also avoid the bow of the ship, where noise from the anchor could disturb you. However, if you go to bed early, avoid cabins close to discos, casinos, nightclubs and dining areas. If you have difficulty walking or expect to spend a great deal of time at the pool, then select a room closest to a pool area. Only you can judge whether a balcony room or suite is worth the additional cost, sometimes up to twice that of a regular cabin. The advantage of a balcony room is that you have large sliding glass doors, giving you fresh air and a great view and the balcony usually affords you the outdoor privacy you may not get in another cabin.
California's Wine Country
Q: My husband, my almost one year old and myself will be visiting California in June and desperately want to experience the wine country. Can you give me some advice on which area to book accommodation in and any wine farms that stand out in your mind? Smaller, more unique and off-the-beaten track is more our style than the larger commercial farms. Any inns or lodges you also recommend? - Brooke Irving
A; You visit should include the Napa and Ponoma counties, where you will get an authentic feel of the old wine country. There are plenty of small lodges and inns that would suit your requirements and more than enough information on which breweries to visit once you get there. Here are some fun hotels to get your trip off to an entertaining start. The Old Crocker Inn was once the summer home of Charles Crocker, one of the founders of the Central Pacific Railroad. Now it is a charming inn, with eight rooms named after historical figures and events. Try out the Crocker Suite, which has a treehouse feel, with carved four-poster bed and a view of the pond. The inn is only a 30-minute drive from Healdsburg (www.oldcrockerinn, from $145). The town of Boonville is regarded as one of the most isolated towns in the region, located 120kms from Sonoma. But it has survived, partly thanks to the management of the Boonville Hotel. With only 10 rooms it has an uncluttered feel and is very eco-friendly. In this area you can visit Navarro Vineyards, Roederer Estate and Anderson Valley Brewing Company. (www.boonvillehotel.com, from $125) In the Napa Valley, you can try out the Calistoga Inn. The town is refreshingly undeveloped. The inn manages to create a great nightlife with its riverside dining patio and English-style pub (www.calistogainn.com; from $75). Finally, stay in a converted train named the Napa Valley Railway Inn/ WIth nine rooms housed in individual carriages, it is the pride of tiny Yountville. Don't expect service, you collect your keys at a gym, but you can watch hot-air balloons being launched from the carpark outside. (www.napavalleyrailwayinn.com; from $140).
A; You visit should include the Napa and Ponoma counties, where you will get an authentic feel of the old wine country. There are plenty of small lodges and inns that would suit your requirements and more than enough information on which breweries to visit once you get there. Here are some fun hotels to get your trip off to an entertaining start. The Old Crocker Inn was once the summer home of Charles Crocker, one of the founders of the Central Pacific Railroad. Now it is a charming inn, with eight rooms named after historical figures and events. Try out the Crocker Suite, which has a treehouse feel, with carved four-poster bed and a view of the pond. The inn is only a 30-minute drive from Healdsburg (www.oldcrockerinn, from $145). The town of Boonville is regarded as one of the most isolated towns in the region, located 120kms from Sonoma. But it has survived, partly thanks to the management of the Boonville Hotel. With only 10 rooms it has an uncluttered feel and is very eco-friendly. In this area you can visit Navarro Vineyards, Roederer Estate and Anderson Valley Brewing Company. (www.boonvillehotel.com, from $125) In the Napa Valley, you can try out the Calistoga Inn. The town is refreshingly undeveloped. The inn manages to create a great nightlife with its riverside dining patio and English-style pub (www.calistogainn.com; from $75). Finally, stay in a converted train named the Napa Valley Railway Inn/ WIth nine rooms housed in individual carriages, it is the pride of tiny Yountville. Don't expect service, you collect your keys at a gym, but you can watch hot-air balloons being launched from the carpark outside. (www.napavalleyrailwayinn.com; from $140).
A Hotel for Divas
Q: My sister and I are going to be in San Francisco for a few days in May and need a decent, stylish hotel that won't cost a fortune. Everything I have found so far is either heavily overpriced or dull motel-like accommodation. I hope you can restore my belief that San Fran is trendy! - Joan Derby
A: You will certainly discover that San Francisco, with its large gay community, is one of the trendiest cities in America. Friends I contacted recommended Hotel Diva as the perfect lodgings for you. This striking, modern hotel was a big hit when it opened in 19856, winning "Best Hotel Design" from Interiors magazine, a renovations have kept it at the cutting edge. A big TV screen in the striking lobby shows clips of famous divas and the rooms are fitted out with DVD players, flat screen TVs, iPod alarm clocks and stainless steel bathrooms. The hotel is in a great location just opposite the American Conservatory Theatre and Philippe Starck's Redwood Room. A few steps away is Union Square, offering the best shopping in the city, and scores of restaurants, clubs and bars. There's a Starbucks adjacent to the lobby if you don't feel like a full breakfast. Just one consideration - like many hotels in California, no smoking is allowed within the hotel.. Rates start around 150US dollars for a double room, but vary substantially according to season and demand. Early booking is essential. (www.hoteldiva.com)
A: You will certainly discover that San Francisco, with its large gay community, is one of the trendiest cities in America. Friends I contacted recommended Hotel Diva as the perfect lodgings for you. This striking, modern hotel was a big hit when it opened in 19856, winning "Best Hotel Design" from Interiors magazine, a renovations have kept it at the cutting edge. A big TV screen in the striking lobby shows clips of famous divas and the rooms are fitted out with DVD players, flat screen TVs, iPod alarm clocks and stainless steel bathrooms. The hotel is in a great location just opposite the American Conservatory Theatre and Philippe Starck's Redwood Room. A few steps away is Union Square, offering the best shopping in the city, and scores of restaurants, clubs and bars. There's a Starbucks adjacent to the lobby if you don't feel like a full breakfast. Just one consideration - like many hotels in California, no smoking is allowed within the hotel.. Rates start around 150US dollars for a double room, but vary substantially according to season and demand. Early booking is essential. (www.hoteldiva.com)
Alternative view of Budapest
Q: I have offered my wife a week's trip to Europe (June/July) with her sister and they have decided on Budapest . They are investigating the usual tourist attractions, but I am looking for the “unusual” or the “hidden gems” so to speak. - Craig Moyes
A: The best way to find out about out-of-the-way places is to talk to other travellers when you are there. To get you started and to mingle with more adventurous tourists, here are four interesting things to do:
1. Visit the House of Terror Museum to get an insight into Hungary's turbulent recent history. Featuring the grim decades of Nazi and Communist repression, this museum is housed in the former headquarters for the secret police of both the Nazi and Communist governments, an address that filled the heart of the average Hungarian with dread for the best part of 50 years. You can find the museum at Andrassy út 60 (www.terrorhaza.hu)
2. Rather than negotiate your own way through the pub scene (avoid strip clubs at all costs), then join an organised pub crawl. These are widely advertised and will take you to a minimum of four pubs for two beers in each. By the end of that you will be shouting "Egeszsegedre!" which is Hungarian for cheers.
3. Skip the advertised tours to very-touristy cafes and restaurants and try out one for yourself. One of the best is Gerbeaud, a landmark cafe with lavish interiors. There you will see the piano that was intended for use on board the Titanic. Find it at V Vorosmarty ter 7 (www.gerbeaud.hu)
4. See Budapest from a rented Segway. A three-hour sightseeing tour by Segway will keep you in touch with the locals and allow you access where vehicles cannot go. Make sure the Segway is full insured. (citysegwaytours.com)
A: The best way to find out about out-of-the-way places is to talk to other travellers when you are there. To get you started and to mingle with more adventurous tourists, here are four interesting things to do:
1. Visit the House of Terror Museum to get an insight into Hungary's turbulent recent history. Featuring the grim decades of Nazi and Communist repression, this museum is housed in the former headquarters for the secret police of both the Nazi and Communist governments, an address that filled the heart of the average Hungarian with dread for the best part of 50 years. You can find the museum at Andrassy út 60 (www.terrorhaza.hu)
2. Rather than negotiate your own way through the pub scene (avoid strip clubs at all costs), then join an organised pub crawl. These are widely advertised and will take you to a minimum of four pubs for two beers in each. By the end of that you will be shouting "Egeszsegedre!" which is Hungarian for cheers.
3. Skip the advertised tours to very-touristy cafes and restaurants and try out one for yourself. One of the best is Gerbeaud, a landmark cafe with lavish interiors. There you will see the piano that was intended for use on board the Titanic. Find it at V Vorosmarty ter 7 (www.gerbeaud.hu)
4. See Budapest from a rented Segway. A three-hour sightseeing tour by Segway will keep you in touch with the locals and allow you access where vehicles cannot go. Make sure the Segway is full insured. (citysegwaytours.com)
Quality Tango Show in BA
Q: We will be visiting Buenos Aires in March as part of an organised tour. It includes a visit to a tango restaurant. However, if it turns out to be a real tourist trap, I would like to see a quality show. Could you suggest one or two good tango shows in the city? - Georgie O'Reilly.
A: Cafe Tortoni comes highly recommended. It features classical tango in an intimate basement venue in the city centre. It has retained the atmosphere of the 60s era, when it opened and the walls are covered with pictures of celebrities. Booking is definitely essential. (Avenida de Mayo 825, www.cafetortoni.com.ar) For a more grand, Las Vegas-style show, Senor Tango caters for the mass market with a professional production. It may be a little touristy for your taste and has been controversial, but the dancing and music is good. While many visitors rate it a highlight of their visit to the city, others found it too stagey. (Vieytes 1653, www.senortango.com.ar)
If you want a "local" experience, residents can recommend suburban tango shows. One of these is El Viejo Almacen, located in San Telmo barrio. Small and cosy, you will find that most of the audience here are Argentinians. (www.viejo-almacen.com.ar)
A: Cafe Tortoni comes highly recommended. It features classical tango in an intimate basement venue in the city centre. It has retained the atmosphere of the 60s era, when it opened and the walls are covered with pictures of celebrities. Booking is definitely essential. (Avenida de Mayo 825, www.cafetortoni.com.ar) For a more grand, Las Vegas-style show, Senor Tango caters for the mass market with a professional production. It may be a little touristy for your taste and has been controversial, but the dancing and music is good. While many visitors rate it a highlight of their visit to the city, others found it too stagey. (Vieytes 1653, www.senortango.com.ar)
If you want a "local" experience, residents can recommend suburban tango shows. One of these is El Viejo Almacen, located in San Telmo barrio. Small and cosy, you will find that most of the audience here are Argentinians. (www.viejo-almacen.com.ar)
Valentine's Day in Paris
Q: My husband and I are staying in Paris for a week, which includes Valentine's Day. Could you give us some suggestions on what to do and recommendations for restaurants, especially on February 14? We are fluent in French. - Mike R
A: You can start off your evening at one of the most famous bars in town, the Bar Hemingway at the Ritz Paris Hotel. The drinks are not cheap, but some of the cocktails have orchids and roses hanging from them. For dinner, what could be more romantic than the Eiffel Tower? Book early to get a table at the restaurant on the second level of the tower, Le Jules Verne (www.restaurants-toureiffel.com). The other restaurant in the tower, Altitude 95, is closed until March for renovations. If the tower doesn't appeal to you, a cozy restaurant once frequented by Emile Xola and Balzac may tickle your fancy. The Laperouse restaurant (51 quai des Grands Augustins) is offering a special Valentine's Day menu for 190 euros without wine. An alternative would be to take a romantic dinner cruise on the Seine River. If you really want to splash out, nothing beats Les Ambassadeurs restaurant at the Hôtel de Crillon. This regal restaurant is hosued in the former ballroom and has a 25-foot ceiling studded with Baccarat chandeliers. Chef Jean-François Piège limits himself with a choice of three appetizers, three meat courses, three fish courses, and four signatures dishes. Don't even ask the price.
A: You can start off your evening at one of the most famous bars in town, the Bar Hemingway at the Ritz Paris Hotel. The drinks are not cheap, but some of the cocktails have orchids and roses hanging from them. For dinner, what could be more romantic than the Eiffel Tower? Book early to get a table at the restaurant on the second level of the tower, Le Jules Verne (www.restaurants-toureiffel.com). The other restaurant in the tower, Altitude 95, is closed until March for renovations. If the tower doesn't appeal to you, a cozy restaurant once frequented by Emile Xola and Balzac may tickle your fancy. The Laperouse restaurant (51 quai des Grands Augustins) is offering a special Valentine's Day menu for 190 euros without wine. An alternative would be to take a romantic dinner cruise on the Seine River. If you really want to splash out, nothing beats Les Ambassadeurs restaurant at the Hôtel de Crillon. This regal restaurant is hosued in the former ballroom and has a 25-foot ceiling studded with Baccarat chandeliers. Chef Jean-François Piège limits himself with a choice of three appetizers, three meat courses, three fish courses, and four signatures dishes. Don't even ask the price.
Nine hours in Phuket
Q: We have a lay-over of almost 9 hours in Phuket (arriving 09.35 from Singapore and departing for Koh Samui 18.20). We will clear customs as the onward flight is a domestic one. Can you recommend an activity or two for the 7-8 hours we are in Phuket? - Ferdi Tavares
A: First of all, make sure you pack a change of clothing, a hat, swimming costume, towel and suntan lotion separately from your other luggage. if your luggage is not booked straight through to Samui, then book it through at Phuket Airport so that you do not have to carry it around with you. I have three options to recommend. The first is to take a taxi to Patong Beach, the tourist capital of the city. Ask to be dropped off in the Aroonsom area (near the Andaman Suites Hotel) and find a cheap room for the day. This should cost you around R300, but it will be well worth it. Drop off your hand luggage, deposit your passports and valuables in the room safe and then set off to explore this fascinating resort. Go shopping at the markets, eat at one of the many Thai restaurants and spend some time on the beach. Return to your room at 3pm for a shower and change of clothing and then set off for the airport two hours before the departure time. The second option is to hire a taxi at the airport for a tour of the island. Get a map of Phuket and ensure that the driver takes you down the full length of the west coast (where all the best resorts are) and then returns to the airport via the highway that runs up the centre of the island. The cost should be around 2000 baht (around R600) for both of you. You can stop off at places that catch your eye and have a swim at one of the wonderful beaches. Resist any moves by the driver to take you shopping or to visit one of the "organised attractions" like elephant rides, the zoo or snake show. The final option is to get your travel company to organise a boat trip through Phang Nga Bay (often referred to as a James Bond island tour). You will get collected at the airport, taken to the port and spend a few hours cruising around this magnificent bay, famous for its limestone outcrops. You should even be able to spend some time kayaking through sea caves. This is likely to be the most pricey option at around 3000 baht per person (R900).
A: First of all, make sure you pack a change of clothing, a hat, swimming costume, towel and suntan lotion separately from your other luggage. if your luggage is not booked straight through to Samui, then book it through at Phuket Airport so that you do not have to carry it around with you. I have three options to recommend. The first is to take a taxi to Patong Beach, the tourist capital of the city. Ask to be dropped off in the Aroonsom area (near the Andaman Suites Hotel) and find a cheap room for the day. This should cost you around R300, but it will be well worth it. Drop off your hand luggage, deposit your passports and valuables in the room safe and then set off to explore this fascinating resort. Go shopping at the markets, eat at one of the many Thai restaurants and spend some time on the beach. Return to your room at 3pm for a shower and change of clothing and then set off for the airport two hours before the departure time. The second option is to hire a taxi at the airport for a tour of the island. Get a map of Phuket and ensure that the driver takes you down the full length of the west coast (where all the best resorts are) and then returns to the airport via the highway that runs up the centre of the island. The cost should be around 2000 baht (around R600) for both of you. You can stop off at places that catch your eye and have a swim at one of the wonderful beaches. Resist any moves by the driver to take you shopping or to visit one of the "organised attractions" like elephant rides, the zoo or snake show. The final option is to get your travel company to organise a boat trip through Phang Nga Bay (often referred to as a James Bond island tour). You will get collected at the airport, taken to the port and spend a few hours cruising around this magnificent bay, famous for its limestone outcrops. You should even be able to spend some time kayaking through sea caves. This is likely to be the most pricey option at around 3000 baht per person (R900).
Explore Paris by bike
Q: My brother and I would like to explore Paris by bike. I have heard that there is a system where you can rent a bike from automatic stands. Could you give us some information on costs and location of these stands? - Daphne Greyvenstein.
A: The Vélib bike service launched in 2007. More than 20,000 bikes are kept in automated racks posted throughout the city. There are 1,450 stations, roughly one station every 300 metres throughout the city centre, making Vélib’ the largest system of its kind in the world. Each Vélib station is equipped with an automatic rental terminal and maps showing the station locations are available at all kiosks. You will need a credit card to sign up for the programme. In order to use the system, you then need to take out a subscription, which allows you an unlimited number of rentals. Subscriptions can be purchased at one euro per day, or five euros per week. With a subscription, bike rental is free for the first half hour of every individual trip and an unlimited number of such free trips can be made per day. A trip that lasts longer than 30 minutes incurs a charge of one to four euros for each subsequent 30-minute period. The increasing price scale is intended to keep the bikes in circulation.
A: The Vélib bike service launched in 2007. More than 20,000 bikes are kept in automated racks posted throughout the city. There are 1,450 stations, roughly one station every 300 metres throughout the city centre, making Vélib’ the largest system of its kind in the world. Each Vélib station is equipped with an automatic rental terminal and maps showing the station locations are available at all kiosks. You will need a credit card to sign up for the programme. In order to use the system, you then need to take out a subscription, which allows you an unlimited number of rentals. Subscriptions can be purchased at one euro per day, or five euros per week. With a subscription, bike rental is free for the first half hour of every individual trip and an unlimited number of such free trips can be made per day. A trip that lasts longer than 30 minutes incurs a charge of one to four euros for each subsequent 30-minute period. The increasing price scale is intended to keep the bikes in circulation.
Walking in Tuscany
Q: My husband and I would like to do a walking tour of Tuscany in May this year. Who can we contact to assist us and give us information? - Jenny Douglas
A: ATG-Oxford, which can be contacted at www.atg-oxford.co.uk, conducts several guided and unguided (called Footloose) tours in Tuscany. They include a seven day or five day walk from San Gimignano to Siena, an eight-day walk from Siena to Florence and two Southern Tuscany walks from Siena to Pienza (8 days) or from Buonconento to Pienza (5 days). Prices range from STG425 for the shorter walks to STG 1,125 for the 8 day walks. Walkers are provided with a detailed guide book which, according to friends who have used ATG are easy to follow. Guides are available to transport your luggage and to provide you with advice on restaurants etc. Walkers require only a day pack. Accommodation is at three star hotels.
A: ATG-Oxford, which can be contacted at www.atg-oxford.co.uk, conducts several guided and unguided (called Footloose) tours in Tuscany. They include a seven day or five day walk from San Gimignano to Siena, an eight-day walk from Siena to Florence and two Southern Tuscany walks from Siena to Pienza (8 days) or from Buonconento to Pienza (5 days). Prices range from STG425 for the shorter walks to STG 1,125 for the 8 day walks. Walkers are provided with a detailed guide book which, according to friends who have used ATG are easy to follow. Guides are available to transport your luggage and to provide you with advice on restaurants etc. Walkers require only a day pack. Accommodation is at three star hotels.
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